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Gerry Lopez: the tale of a cat with nine lives

At the California Surf Museum's gala, dinner plates have been cleared, and the live auction has finished. Gerry Lopez 's auction contribution, a striking red beauty with a bright golden pin line and logo accents, has gone for well over $10,000 - a record for the event. The other guests of honor have received their awards. Honoree Fernando Aguerre roused the room with the announcement that his lifelong dream of bringing surfing to the Olympics had finally come true - surfing would be admitted to the 2020 Games. Ever the belle of the ball, Jericho Poppler nearly stole the show with her Academy Award-like entrance to the stage after film star Gregory Harrison gave a "Best Actor in a Supporting Role" introduction for one of the true greats of women's surfing. Nat Young, perhaps Australia's greatest surfer of his era, introduces Gerry, ending with a fiery accolade inviting him to accept his award and say a few words. The room comes to a standing ovation. G...

Mike Hynson, the co-star of 'The Endless Summer,' passes away

Mike Hynson, the charismatic surfer and shaper who rose to fame as the co-star of Bruce Brown's 1966 film "The Endless Summer," has passed away at the age of 82. Born on June 28, 1942, in Crescent City, California, Hynson grew up moving between Hawaii and Southern California, eventually settling in San Diego's Pacific Beach. It was there he developed his surfing talent, quickly becoming one of the region's most skilled riders. In 1961, on his first trip to Hawaii, Hynson was among the first surfers to ride the challenging Pipeline on Oahu's North Shore. Two years later, filmmaker Bruce Brown invited Hynson to join Robert August on a global surf trip for what would become " The Endless Summer ." It was the perfect reason to leave the country and avoid being drafted into the army. The film, which chronicled their search for the "perfect wave," was a landmark moment in surf culture. Hynson's graceful ride at Cape St. Francis in Sou...

Hawaiian Airlines embraces surfboards as checked baggage

In a move likely to surprise anyone who has ever nervously handed over their surfboard at an airport counter, Hawaiian Airlines has announced it will now treat surfboards, bicycles, and other sports equipment as standard checked baggage. The airline, clearly aware of Hawaii's reputation as a global surfing destination, appears ready to extend an olive branch to surfers worldwide - and perhaps a foam-padded one at that. The new policy allows sports enthusiasts to check their gear - including golf clubs, surfboards, and bikes - on all Hawaiian Airlines flights without incurring extra fees beyond the usual checked baggage charge. "Hawaii is synonymous with surfing and many ocean and land-based activities that draw visitors from around the world," says Sandra Wang, product manager at the airline. "We are excited to extend this new benefit to our visitors and kama'āina so they can enjoy their favorite sports and hobbies while exploring Hawaii and anywhere they t...

What is wave reflection?

Wave reflection is a process where waves, upon encountering a barrier, bounce back into the medium from which they originated. The interaction is governed by the law of reflection, which states that the angle of the incoming wave (incident wave) equals the angle of the outgoing wave (reflected wave). It applies to all types of waves, including water, light, and sound waves. In the water environment, you can confirm the phenomenon either in a laboratory tank or on coastal shores. Wave reflection also often changes and influences surf breaks and how swells behave when they reach the shores. The Mechanics of Wave Reflection When a wave encounters a vertical or steep surface - such as a seawall, cliff, or breakwater - it cannot pass through. That's quite simple to visualize, right? Instead, the energy of the wave is redirected back into the water, with part of its energy lost due to dissipation. So, for reflection to occur, the barrier must provide resistance, preventing the...

PerfectSwell: the sequence-based, air pressure-powered wave pool system

PerfectSwell is a wave pool technology developed by American Wave Machines (AWM). It is one of the first inland surf systems to open a facility to the public. In the highly competitive wave pool industry , PerfectSwell was one of the pioneers in creating customized surf menus out of an enclosed water basin. Its instant success in Texas is anchored on the experience accumulated by its mother company - AWM - since California surfer Bruce McFarland founded the company in 2000. McFarland initiated his artificial wave adventure with SurfStream, one of the world's first rideable standing wave machines, only surpassed by the popularity of Wave Loch's Flowrider , created in 1991. Interestingly, the research for SurfStream kicked off inspired by the striking footage of surfers taking on the stationary, human-made Waimea rivermouth waves. The early prototype was a 1/12th scale model tested in Bruce's backyard. By 2004, the developer invited New Jersey surfers to test the inaug...

What causes seasickness and how to manage it

It's one of the most unusual and simultaneously unpleasant symptoms one can get out at sea. Here's what makes us feel seasick and what can we do to get rid of it. Seasickness is a form of motion sickness, also known as kinetosis, that occurs when your brain receives mixed signals from your eyes, inner ear, and body. These conflicting signals can make you feel dizzy, nauseous, and unwell.  You've probably already felt it when you are on a boat or ship - your inner ear senses motion as the vessel rocks with the waves. However, your eyes might not detect this movement if you are focused on something stationary, like the interior of the boat. The disconnect between what you see and what you feel confuses your brain and can lead to seasickness. What Amplifies Seasickness? All people are different, but yet several factors can worsen seasickness: Rough Seas: Strong waves and choppy waters increase the motion of the vessel, making it harder for your body to adjust; Fati...

Has Mavericks topped Nazaré?

On December 23, 2024, Mavericks, the world-renowned surf spot near Half Moon Bay, Northern California, delivered waves so massive they left even the most seasoned chargers in awe. Ken "Skindog" Collins called it the "swell of a lifetime"; others talk about a potential new Guinness World Record (GWR). It has been described within the big-wave surfing community as one of the greatest days in the history of the break, with waves towering over 60-80 feet (18-24 meters), fueled by a once-in-a-decade swell. Santa Cruz surfer Alessandro "Alo" Slebir, who has spent years honing his skills at Mavericks, was among the standout performers. He and his tow partner, Luca Padua, were the first to hit the water at sunrise, staying until their jet ski nearly ran out of fuel by evening. During the peak of the swell in the afternoon, Luca towed Alo into a wave so big that some are already calling it a potential world record. "It felt different. When I turned at t...

Fines imposed for drunk surfing in South Korea

It's probably a unique, unprecedented decision. Starting in June 2025, surfing while under the influence of alcohol will be officially outlawed in South Korea. South Korea has around 9,500 miles (15,300 kilometers) of coastline, i.e., around ten times more than Portugal. Although fairly shadowed by Pacific swells by Japan, it still gets plenty of surf generated in the Sea of Japan and the Yellow Sea. As a result, there are plenty of rideable waves around the Korean Peninsula and even a wave pool in Seoul. Recently, there have been reports of links between booze and wave-riding that don't necessarily involve the real South Korean surfing community but people who visit Yangyang, a well-known surf town. Yangyang, home to some of the country's best surf breaks, is becoming a party hotspot and even earning the controversial reputation of a "one-night stand mecca." Alcohol-fueled nightlife, provocative social media portrayals, and associated activities like ...

What is a king tide?

King tides are extremely high spring tides that occur when the gravitational forces of the Moon and Sun align with Earth in a way that amplifies their effects on ocean water levels. While the term "king tide" isn't scientific, it has become widely used to describe these exceptional tidal events. These phenomena result from a combination of factors, including: Spring Tides: These occur during new and full moons when the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun are aligned, leading to higher-than-normal tidal ranges; Perigee: The Moon's orbit around Earth is elliptical, meaning its distance from Earth varies. Perigee is when the Moon is closest to Earth, intensifying its gravitational influence; Perihelion: Similarly, Earth's orbit around the Sun is elliptical, and perihelion is when Earth is closest to the Sun, usually in early January, enhancing tidal effects; When spring tides coincide with the Moon's perigee and Earth's perihelion, the resulti...

Landon McNamara conquers the 2024-2025 Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational

Under the glow of a Hawaiian sunrise, Waimea Bay awakened to host one of the most prestigious surfing events in the world: the 2024 Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. It was time to go. Thousands of spectators had already claimed their vantage points by the early hours, transforming the iconic North Shore cliffs into a buzzing amphitheater of anticipation. As the event's green light was confirmed, the ocean swelled with raw power, delivering on its promise of monster waves and heroic performances. You could feel the tension in the air and the nerves as athletes started to put on their color jerseys. The Eddie, named after the legendary waterman Eddie Aikau , demands courage, skill, and a connection to the ocean's mana - and this year, the competition honored that legacy in spectacular fashion. Eddie would go , and Eddie went. A Swell Worth the Wait Despite an uncertain forecast for the upcoming hours, the first heat delivered, with defending champion Luke Shepardson se...

Nathan Florence and Erin Brooks win the 2024 Pipe Masters

Nathan Florence and Erin Brooks have taken out the 2024 Vans Pipeline Masters at Banzai Pipeline on the North Shore of Oahu. We have to go back years to recall a time when the prestigious Hawaiian surfing event did not have any coverage from the official sponsor. There was no live webcast from Vans nor written reports of the four days of action. If the goal is to keep the Pipe Masters in an ultra-private and intimate bubble where only spectators on the beach can enjoy it, it might be a good idea to communicate it clearly to everyone who's not in Hawaii in December. Unfortunately, the largest brands within the surf industry are generally the ones with the poorest communication strategies . Vans have been involved in surfing for some time now, and their coverage of the Triple Crown of Surfing was quite acceptable until a few years ago. They even had an exclusive event website that was updated regularly with words, photos, and video highlights. However, the famous skater sh...

The emotional return on investment of surfing

If you ask longtime wave riders what the magic and appeal of surfing is, they might struggle to give you an exact, clear reason. Surfing is profoundly addictive. It makes you want more and more waves and to surf more and more regularly - every day, twice a day, and even at night. You rarely find someone who learned to stand on their feet and glide across the water who has quit because it wasn't fun. Surfing is surely one of the sports with the highest retention levels, with its influence transcending the boundaries of the physical activity itself. If you explore some of the surfing's most memorable quotes , you'll notice that many of those timeless references feature some sort of unexplainable, intangible descriptions. Duke Kahanamoku once revealed that, "Out of the water, I am nothing." "Surfing is almost a way to fly," stated Jeff Hakman. Shaun Tomson said that, "It's joy, fear, and accomplishment all rolled into one experience....

Swell Manufacturing: the artificial wave technology generated by hydraulics

Swell Manufacturing is a wave pool company founded in Arizona in 2017 by Matthew Gunn, John Bushey, and Shane Beschen. It's one of the simplest methods in the market for producing artificial waves. So, how does it work? The wave-generating machine is anchored on a set of independent chambers with hydraulic paddles that, when pressed against the water, create a ripple effect. The fact that the chambers can behave and work separately allows operators to adjust the type of wave to the surfers' preferences. One of Swell Manufacturing's most striking waves is the A-frame. It breaks in the center of the surf lagoon and allows two surfers to take off on the same wave - going left and right - or to try the steep take-off, backdoor it, and get barreled. However, the software-controlled chamber array can also be instructed to generate a point break, a mellow longboard ride, or a high-performance, Lower Trestles-style wave for power turns and airs. It is also possible to fire ...

Should surfers open their eyes underwater?

Whether surfing in the ocean or wave pools, surfers' eyes are regularly in contact with more or less water. But how much is too much? Is it safe to open your eyes underwater? It's a tricky call. Surfing is one of the few water sports where participants are regularly submerged underwater several times anytime they're out for a session. It could be in saltwater or, more recently, chlorinated pools and freshwater rivers. And if you exclude all water sportspeople who use goggles or diving masks, there are few left but surfers. Sooner or later, a surfer must duck dive a wave or suffer a wipeout. It's inevitable, happens all the time to beginners and advanced riders, and it's intrinsic to the sport. And when we do go below the surface, it could be useful to open our eyes to monitor our surroundings and make decisions. So, should surfers open their eyes underwater: yes or no? The Advantages First, let's reflect on the advantages of activating the power of s...

Endless Surf: the heart-shaped, pneumatic-powered wave pool

Of all 21st-century wave pool technology players, Endless Surf is backed by one of the industry's longtime veterans: Whitewater. Whitewater is one of the longest-running companies in the water park business. Founded in 1980 by Geoff Chutter and his uncle in Penticton, Canada, it developed its first wave pool in 1989, the iconic Disney's Typhoon Lagoon in Florida. Whitewater remained relatively unknown in the surfing world for over two decades, especially in the artificial wave segment. That changed in 2014 when the Richmond-based company bought WaveLoch's Flowrider . From that moment on, it was clear that Whitewater was aware of the chlorine wave-riding revolution and wanted a share of the profits. At the time, everyone knew Wavegarden 's and Kelly Slater's intention to further explore a niche that would become potentially larger than the existing and decaying surf industry itself. Catching Up Wave pools have become the new surfwear, the new kids on the bl...