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Mostrando postagens de outubro, 2025

The interesting role of ego in surfing

The ego is a very complex psychological function of human existence. The idea or construction of the self is a process that starts early in our lives and actually never ends. It evolves, changes, morphs, adapts, and shapes part of who we are, as a perception of ourselves, but also as the overall image we project socially. Without wanting to get into Freudian or scientific detail, the ego is neither a good nor a bad characteristic. It's an inevitable function of being human. The ego is often rightfully and mistakenly associated with our personality and character. It relates to confidence , self-esteem, and inevitably, performance. It's a constant struggle between our desires and the moral compass that we have set and believe to be fair, balanced, and somehow universally accepted. Additional second-level psychological layers, like vanity, judgment, pride, and decision-making, come into play, transforming the ego into an intense battle of internal emotions, feelings, and ra...

Standing wave riders establish the International River Surfing Association

Representatives from 18 clubs from around the world officially founded the International River Surfing Association (IRSA). The new organization with headquarters in Bern, Switzerland, will focus on promoting collaboration, sharing knowledge, and supporting non-commercial river wave projects worldwide. The IRSA hopes to ride the growing wave of standing river surfing spots and facilities popping all over the planet, along with the construction of multiple wave pools in inland regions. "River surfing has long since become more than a local phenomenon," says founding member Pascal Knapp. "Today, it's a shared international movement aiming to make the sport safer, more sustainable, and accessible to everyone." The idea to create IRSA began as a simple chat group among the first European river wave associations and initiatives. It was concluded at the International River Surfing Summit 2025 in Prague. The newly-founded association gathers expertise from ten na...

The paradoxical case of the surfboard with two tails and two fin setups

Could a surfboard have two tails? Or, in other words, could a surfboard have two fin setups? Well, in surfboard design, impossible is nothing. The richness of surfing is its creative participants and craftspeople who add increments of knowledge, experience, and innovation to its universe. The time when surfboard shapes stood still around the same pattern of outlines, deck and bottom contours , and tail and nose paradigms is long gone. Board manufacturers who keep bringing new designs to life using their own hands and expertise are constantly testing out-of-the-box concepts. The era of asymmetrical surfboards is no longer a novelty; aggressive and deep channels have been in the water for a while. So, what's left to try? This time, we challenge you, dear reader, to reflect on the pros and cons, advantages and disadvantages of the surfboard with two tails and two fin setups. The model in question, which went relatively unnoticed and under the radar and could've very well ...

Max Neuböck rides wave for over 8 hours to set Guinness World Record

It's not every day that someone spends an entire work shift riding a single wave. But Austrian surfer Maximilian Neuböck just did exactly that and wrote his name in the world's most famous record book. At The RiverWave in Ebensee, Austria, Neuböck surfed for an astonishing 8 hours, 5 minutes, and 44 seconds, earning himself the Guinness World Record for the longest time spent surfing a wave (male). Max started his marathon session early in the morning, just as sunlight began to creep over the snow-dusted peaks of the Salzkammergut. The air was cold, but the surfer was calm and focused. Once he hopped on his board, he didn't get off again - not for food, not for rest, not even for a bathroom break. Surfing, Soup, and Stamina During the record-breaking ride, Neuböck managed to keep his balance while sipping soup, eating pizza, using a massage gun on his legs, and drinking energy drinks. Spectators on the dock occasionally handed him warm drinks and snacks, which he ac...

GB Cup suspended after free surfers' abuse toward female competitors

What was meant to be a celebration of British surfing young talent turned into a surf localism incident at Thurso, Scotland, when a group of free surfers paddled into the lineup and allegedly hurled abuse at young female surfers. One of them was just 15 years old. The women's semi-final of the GB Cup, an annual event featuring top surfers from England, Scotland, Wales, and the Channel Islands, came to an abrupt stop on Sunday after the incident. GB Surfing, the entity that organizes the competition and prepares athletes for the Olympics, announced that the finals were postponed "in the interest of competitor safety." The incident follows a similar one that took place in June 2025 during a German competition in France . "Completely Unacceptable" Behavior Witnesses and officials described a disturbing scene. According to multiple accounts, five men - reportedly in their 40s - paddled into the heat and began shouting at the female competitors, telling them...

Patrick Tom on 'The Long Goodbye': 'My surf wax brings me luck'

Have you ever thought about developing a relationship with your surf wax? You might have never imagined that could be even remotely possible, but "The Long Goodbye," a short movie by Patrick Henry Tom, invites us to explore it. Patrick Henry Tom is a commercial film director and creative director in the advertising industry. His name is relatively new in the surf movie scene, but his 2025 short titled "The Long Goodbye" introduced simple yet new and fascinating elements into the ever-elitist universe of surf culture. SurferToday was curious to learn a bit more about who's behind such an intriguing flick that puts surf wax in the center of any surfer's memories. Patrick lives in Redondo Beach and surfs primarily around the South Bay of LA, from Manhattan Beach down to Redondo. Depending on the swell direction and the sand bars on any given day, he admits to finding a fun peak here and there. Besides surfing, Tom enjoys spending time with his wife and s...

The secret life and science of ship-generated waves

You have probably noticed a V-pattern-like series of waves diverging behind a vessel and even surfers taking advantage of them. Ship-generated wakes have a science of their own. Here's what sets them apart from regular ocean waves. "Waves and Beaches" (Patagonia, 2020) by Willard Bascom and Kim McCoy is a book every ocean enthusiast should read. It teaches us, without getting too technical or scientific, the fundamental dynamics of the sea and coastlines, and how they all interact constantly and rather harmoniously. One of the book's subchapters is about waves produced by ships. Surfers have been increasingly drawn to riding these unusual waves or wakes. They search for them, identify the best opportunities, study the timings, and then go for them. But what's so special about the waves generated by a ship that slices through the sea? What's behind and beneath that foamy trail? You could tell that these are human-made waves, born from engines and hulls r...

The new offshore waves of El Salvador

In October 2025, Kai Lenny flew to El Salvador on a mission as team leader to surf a new wave. He was accompanied by his brother, Ridge Lenny, and friends Natxo Gonzalez and Angelina Decesare. Before he posted his videos on his YouTube channel, Punta Roca and Punta Mango were considered the best waves in the country. Furthermore, it shattered the misconception that only point breaks could offer big and hollow waves in the country. Kai Lenny did not discover this new wave. In fact, several local Salvadoran surfers like Ezequiel and Bryan Perez already knew about it, but they did not have the big wave experience and the right equipment. For these waves, a brand-new jet ski was needed; they cost around $18k, which most Salvadoran surfers cannot afford. Kai Lenny's exploits in El Salvador are excellent news for the government, which has invested heavily in promoting the country as a surfing destination for the rest of the world. Before Kai's arrival, the appeal of the co...

Those special surfing days

One of the great things about life is that there's always something that makes us get out of bed, even during rough times. We could be going through difficult times for quite a while, but then, here and there, there's always a glimpse of hope and light, making it all worth it. Why does that happen? I do believe we reserve a little corner of our hearts and souls filled with hope, one of the scarcest resources in modern life. Surfing is often that one of the ingredients of that spark. My favorite surf sessions nowadays are clearly those that are totally unexpected for a number of reasons. When you've been surfing for decades, you tend to become more picky regarding conditions, crowd factor, and the place itself. Sadly, I rarely get super excited and psyched about 90 minutes of pure joy and bliss. Blame it on my personality, maybe. It's not every day or weekend that you keep that overwhelming stoke long hours after having a special surfing time. Here in the southw...

How surfers can predict wave height just by reading the wind

The road to becoming a complete surfer is a long one. But if there's one skill that could set you apart, it's surf forecasting and basic meteorology. Here's the good news. You don't need a PhD in oceanography to guess how big or good the waves will be tomorrow. With just a bit of wind data, an interactive map, and a few easy equations born from one of the most trusted wave prediction methods in history - the Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider (SMB) method or modification - you can do it old-school style. The idea is to look at a purple fetch on Windy.com, measure its distance from your favorite surf break, and guess the wave height you might get when you paddle out. And, trust us, you don't even need to be a math geek to estimate it quite well. The Story Behind the SMB Method Back in the 1940s, World War II strategists and planners faced a serious problem: how to predict ocean conditions for landing operations when no wave buoys or satellites existed. The science...

How young is too young? The law and ethics of underage surfers in professional competitions

At only 14 years old, Tya Zebrowski has done what no one in surfing has ever done before. The French prodigy is now the youngest surfer to qualify for the World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour (CT), the elite level of professional competitive surfing. Her achievement impressed everyone in the surf world, but it also invited us to reflect on how young is too young to compete professionally. Also, when a minor is competing at the highest level and receiving payments for their performances, what does the law actually say about it? Let's start at the root of the discussion. The WSL rulebook doesn't include any minimum age for its top-tier CT events. The only age references appear in the lower tiers - the Challenger Series (CS) and the Qualification Series (QS) - where surfers must be at least 13 to compete in events within their home region and 15 to surf internationally. Younger athletes can apply for special exemptions, but when it comes to the CT, where the sport...

Why North Atlantic storms fire up every autumn and winter

Every fall and winter, the North Atlantic Ocean seems to wake up. It's like a bear coming out of hibernation. But why are these storms, generating massive swells, so regularly and cyclically present during the cold season? It all starts in the American continent. The famous North Atlantic storms are mainly caused by the clash of two meteorological phenomena: the Gulf Stream and its warm ocean water currents, and the northern polar jet stream with its cold continental air. The interaction between these two opposite worlds fuels mighty low-pressure systems, which then inevitably generate massive groundswells. In short, the seasonal cooling of land, the warmth of the Gulf Stream, and the active winter jet stream combine to turn the North Atlantic into a near-constant wave machine. But first, let's learn more about each weather actor to understand the North Atlantic storm showdown during the autumn and winter months. It's all part of the bigger picture that is meteorolog...

Zara and Pierpaolo Piccioli shape the 'Poetically Pink Surfboard'

Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, known for his emotionally charged and art-driven approach to fashion, has taken his creativity into unexpected waters - quite literally. In collaboration with Spanish surfboard maker Pukas and Galician surf brand Vazva, Piccioli has designed his first-ever surfboard for Zara, the Poetically Pink Surfboard. The result is a limited-edition piece that merges surf performance with poetic beauty: a satin-finish pink surfboard that's as ready for waves as it is for an art gallery wall. Piccioli's design takes its cues from the Pukas Flying Diamond model, a performance-oriented board reworked with a fresh, sculptural eye. Pukas describes it as "crafted with a touch of Magnetic Flying DNA," meaning it balances technical precision with a fluid, lively ride. The Flying Diamond shape features a medium rocker and a curved outline that enhance control and responsiveness in the water. Its twin fin setup gives surfers that classic free-flo...