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Unfollowing the sheep: how I (try to) avoid crowded lineups

Crowded lineups: where surfers follow the sheep | Photo: Shutterstock

I have always resisted a very common temptation in everyday surfing: paddling out to where everyone already is.

Point breaks and single-peak beach breaks have several upsides and downsides.

On the one hand, they generally provide perfect peeling waves that allow surfers to adjust to the take-off zone and ride for an exceptionally long time.

On the other hand, because their take-off area is so visible and clear, they tend to attract everyone with a surfboard, and even those who are about to catch their first wave.

I am allergic to crowds in surfing, way more than to crowd surfing. Pun intended.

Whenever I spot a perfect wave with too many human beings, I immediately lose interest in it and start scanning for alternative peaks where I can find peace and tranquility.

I never understood how someone can have fun in an environment where they have to literally impose themselves and fight for a few seconds of pleasure.

It's an antithesis.

You're building anxiety, stress, and frustration over something that is supposedly a source of relaxation, fun, and personal fulfillment.

So, I have a feeling that this automatic reaction to unfollowing the sheep has grown with aging.

If, at some point in my life, I was probably OKish with sharing a cool peak with, let's say, 10 fellow surfers, now, I almost need to be alone.

And that, obviously, poses some problems.

Packed peak: are you a more or better wave guy? | Photo: Balzer/Creative Commons

Never alone with nobody

I live in a country where not only has surfing become quite popular year-round, but it also attracts (too many) surf tourists, eager to escape their flat, near-wave-less, or landlocked nations, eat well, and have a red carpet rolled out for them just because they're foreigners.

Overtourism is a serious problem, and surfing is not helping.

With just 1,115 miles (1793 kilometers) of coastline, there's surely not enough space for 32.5 million guests, many of them surfers, riding quality rolling waves on these beaches.

I have my tricks to dodge the surf crowds.

I am not going to share the names of the places where I surf, but I definitely can tell you what my strategy is.

Yes, it is bittersweet to skip the best waves, but I've learned to tame the desire to get a slice of those fine cakes.

Now, it's like an automatic mechanism that switches my attention off from those dreamy peaks and instinctively finds the spot where I should be.

I am not someone who easily memorizes famous quotes from surfers or people I admire.

But there are two I remember reading and hearing that stuck with me forever. Interestingly, they complement each other.

The first is from Kelly Slater. Not an exact quote, but this is the spirit:

"I'd rather surf in a spot with more average waves just for himself than be jockeying for position in a crowded lineup chasing epic sets."

The second is from Mike Stewart. He actually said this to me:

"You learn more from surfing small waves than you do from riding big waves."

The point I'm trying to get to is that maybe it's better to surf more average waves than only a few better waves.

At least, when it's time to paddle in, your soul will be filled with a bagful of fun rides. And isn't it all about fun?

Surf crowd: some people will do anything just to get the best wave | Photo: Loiterton/Creative Commons

Followed after unfollowing

Now, let's make it a bit more complicated.

Yes, we can always unfollow the sheep and carve our own way to a little gem we found more to the side.

However, we cannot control those who follow the sheep, in this particular case, follow the minority of surfers who think like me.

Recently, I found a sweet peak just for me, maybe 400 yards away from where everybody was.

I was there by myself for half an hour.

Suddenly, I noticed, behind my shoulder, the nose of a surfboard ostensively pointing up to the sky and slowly approaching my comfort zone.

A young beginner surfer wanted to feel part of the tribe and probably felt I needed company.

"Oh, dear... Here we go again...," I thought to myself while rolling my eyes.

Unfortunately, I confirmed my worst expectations. He didn't know where to position, so I lost a few good ones because he was in my surf line.

The good thing is I was just chilling and enjoying my time in the water. I didn't want any socializing or chitchat.

And then I had the idea for this article.

Just because you're unfollowing the sheep doesn't mean you won't be the followed sheep. It sounds like a paradox, but it's quite real in the surfing world.

I wonder if there will be, in the future, affordable, portable wave pools/surf machines that you can have in your backyard just for yourself.

Because I might consider it and proudly become the most unfollowed surfer on the planet.


Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com



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