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Surfers and summer: a love-hate relationship

Summer: more sun, more surfers, less patience, and less etiquette | Photo: Naliboff/Creative Commons

If you asked 100 non-surfers which season they associate with surfing, it's fair to say nearly 100 would probably say summer.

There is a universe of clichés gravitating around the idea of surfing: sun, beach, warm weather and warm water, boardshorts and bikinis, tanned bodies, transparent blue water, tropical islands and settings, and perfect-peeling waves, etc.

Those are valid for Hollywood movie producers and for the mainstream audience as well.

But there are way more.

The language, the slang, the bleach-blond hair, Hawaii, California, the surfboard with three fins, surf vans, and a long queue of semiotic icons that make this sport a rich and multidisciplinary outdoor activity.

Most of the symbols of the so-called surf culture are anchored in the idea and warmth of summer.

Rain and English-like weather are not the first things that come to our minds when we mention places like California and Hawaii.

The same applies to surfing.

Summer surfing has an obvious appeal. There are longer days, near-wetsuit-free water temperatures, and sunny weather.

You can't beat that association.

So, if someone asked surfers whether they would prefer to ride the same quality waves in an empty lineup, barely any would pick the peak of winter.

So, if the variables were identical for both summer and winter, there should be no reason to go for the low temperature and grey skies setting?

It should be a reasonable assessment, right?

However, the idea shared in the timeless and uber-iconic "The Endless Summer" is only possible in movies.

Peace and perfection are rarely a part of the summer surfing equation.

We should therefore leave it as it is and unveil the drawbacks of this classic romantic idea of surfers waiting for waves as the sun sets behind the horizon line.

Dear loyal SurferToday.com reader: summer is indeed, and mostly, a frustrating season for surfers worldwide.

Do you know why?

Crowded lineups

Surfers are often surfers' worst "enemies." That's why crowded lineups during summer are the biggest downside almost everywhere.

School holidays, vacationers, beginners, and occasional surfers all hit the beach at the same time.

In other words, there's more competition for waves, longer waits between rides, more unpleasant dropped-in events, and more frustration and tension in the lineup.

Even normally quiet spots can become packed. How does that relate to an enjoyable experience?

Let's be honest: it doesn't.

Summer surfing: it feels good, but it's rarely an amazing experience | Photo: Rischawy/Creative Commons

Smaller waves

Many surf regions experience their smallest swells during summer because storm activity shifts away from the area.

Smaller waves translate into less power, shorter rides, less time for advanced maneuvers, and more dependence on longboards or higher-volume boards.

That said, some regions (such as parts of Indonesia, Peru, South Africa, or parts of Australia) actually receive excellent surf in their winter, which coincides with summer elsewhere.

More beginners in the water

Summer is when surf schools are busiest and make more money.

The problem is beginners often have limited awareness of surf etiquette, paddle into the wrong position, lose control of their boards, and create unpredictable situations.

And that is never easy to deal with, is it?

Yes, we know that most beginners are simply learning, but even crowded learning areas require extra awareness from everyone else.

More beach traffic

Oh... Summertime... Such great memories... Well, wait.

Getting to the beach itself can become an adventure that has nothing to do with the whole summer surfing cliché.

With traffic jams, full parking lots, long walks carrying equipment, busy boardwalks and access paths, a surfer will be wishing it's all over and back to falling leaves and snowflakes.

A dawn patrol may save you an hour of driving, though. Cherish it.

Hot weather

Warm air feels great until it becomes excessive. You also don't want to be surfing and breathing wildfire smoke from surrounding areas, correct?

Summer heat waves bring dehydration, sunburn, exhaustion, wax melting on the deck, and surfboards delaminating due to extremely high temps inside parked cars.

Choppy afternoon conditions

It's 1 pm sharp. Here comes the wind. A classic.

Summer often brings stronger sea breezes transforming a sunny surf day into a wave-riding nightmare with bumpy faces, more difficult paddling, less predictable takeoffs, and lower wave quality.

Summer morning: probably the best time to surf in the warm season | Photo: Botha/Creative Commons

More jellyfish and marine life

Warm waters mean stingray and jellyfish blooming season.

Warm water feels great, but it's also amazing for sea lice in some regions, and increased algae and kelp in the lineup.

Lower water quality after heavy rain

In some coastal areas, intense summer storms wash pollutants and bacteria into the ocean through rivers and storm drains.

What does it mean, surfwise?

Many surfers avoid entering the water for a day or two after significant rainfall, especially near urban beaches.

Equipment wear

Summer conditions can be surprisingly hard on surf gear.

Just to give you an example, UV degrades neoprene, salt crystals accumulate, sand gets everywhere, heat can weaken adhesives, and ding repairs may soften if left baking in the sun.

Less consistent surf

Even if there are good swells, they may arrive less frequently than during the storm seasons in many parts of the world.

The result is flat spells lasting days or weeks (the actual reason for the birth of skateboarding), constant forecast checking, more driving in search of waves, and increased localism.

Consequently, when lineups become crowded, tensions rise and, at some spots, this leads to more aggressive wave competition, less patience, and stronger enforcement of lineup hierarchy.


Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com



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