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A perfect surfing day with no surfboard to ride

Empty surf breaks: a rare moment in a time where a good wave goes unridden | Photo: Vide/Creative Commons

I've felt it in my skin a few times, and it's deeply frustrating. Have you ever been to the beach with perfect waves rolling and no equipment at all to ride them?

It happened again, dear reader. Yesterday, I went for a walk at my spiritual home break.

Before getting in the car to visit the place where I spent my childhood summer holidays, I checked the weather forecast.

"Hmm... If it's 73.4 ºF (23 ºC) with possible lightning and light showers, I am not even taking boardshorts and a beach towel," I thought to myself.

By the time I had driven 30 minutes and was close to reaching my destination, I noticed the weather clearing and blue skies replacing the light, bright clouds.

Well, at least I would be able to enjoy a pleasant walk on the beach walkways that have become so popular in northern Portugal.

However, what was supposed to be just another dry enjoyment of the coastline quickly morphed into an "I'll just dip my feet in the water" moment.

The weather was so good, I had to do it.

So I took my t-shirt off, rolled up my pants, and went to wet my feet in the sea in a no-surf, kids-only, bathing area.

The water temperature was just unbelievably warm and transparent. A few young parents were introducing seawater to their babies and toddlers.

The scene was just perfect and tender, and I couldn't just stop smiling at the kids' reaction to dipping their feet in the still water.

The bathing area where I was was protected from the traditional northwestern swells that the Atlantic funnels to southwestern Europe nearly 365 days per year.

Therefore, it was a flat natural pool with clean water, algae, seaweed, and the smell of sea air.

In other words, a perfect setup for non-surfers and families with children.

Even though I do enjoy occasional moments like these, waves are just a magnetic force I can never ignore, wherever I am in the world.

If a wave of any sort breaks in any body of water and I am within viewing distance of it, I can't help but drive my eyes toward it.

It's an automatic mechanism that I guess all surfers develop.

Clean lines but no gear in sight

So, as I was observing the love of the sea by everyone around me, I suddenly noticed the tidal forces were making what they do best at this surf break.

Clear lines of small but perfectly rideable waves were arriving at the surfing area, which stood just 100 yards from where I was.

"Oh, no. Not this again..." my brain told itself.

Yes, dear reader, the lineup was empty, and the low, windless tide was creating a natural, fun surf park for a longer surfboard or funboard.

The problem was that I didn't have any board available nearby. All my 10 surfboards were at home at an "unreachable" 10 miles (15 kilometers).

And this is exactly where surfers lose all reason and go full-on emotional.

"Should I just try and buy a cheap foamie to ride this?..." I wondered.

Those uncrowded and beautiful surf lines were driving me insane, for sure. But enough of surfboards, dude. Stop binge-buying gear!

While it's true that there's no such thing as too many boards, it's also true that money and space are scarce resources, just like waves.

My heart was broken. I had a lineup just for me, where I could show off some of my longboarding and switch-stance skills.

Instead, there I was, looking like a fisherman on a break, dipping my feet in the babies' seawater pool, and taking quick glances at the waves I was missing.

A wave of bittersweetness invaded my waterman soul. Why didn't I just have a surfboard and a pair of boardshorts with me?

Maybe that idea of a collapsible surfboard is great, after all. I could just have one always in my car's trunk for occasions like this.

Losing a swell just because you're missing gear is probably as sad and frustrating as having all your equipment and being at a world-class surf break with no waves.

Oh, dear. There are times when I wish I weren't a surfer with a surfer mindset.

And the worst thing is, I feel these golden opportunities won't knock again. Am I being too pessimistic?


Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com



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