There are a few similarities between surfing and mining. In both cases, most of the time is spent physically working and searching for the treasure, whether it is waves or valuable minerals.
In 2012, the Sports Performance Research Institute New Zealand concluded that surfers spend only 8 percent of their time in each session actually riding waves.
Most of the time - 54 percent - they're paddling back to the lineup, repositioning, and paddling for waves.
Based on this assumption, researchers from Griffith University in Queensland, in association with Surfing Australia High Performance Program, decided to dissect the quality and efficiency of paddling among elite-level surfers as opposed to what they called sub-elite surfers.
Surfers know that a quick, powerful paddle can mean the difference between catching the perfect wave or missing it, and that a faster sprint paddling helps surfers punch into waves earlier and ride them longer.
It can also delay fatigue.
As the researchers explain, an effective sprint stroke "promotes optimal wave entry" and can "increase the number of waves caught," giving athletes more opportunities to perform and, therefore, more scoring chances in competitive heats.
But until now, exactly how champion paddlers achieve their speed has been a bit of a mystery.
Tracking Every Twist
To uncover the secrets of sprint paddling, the research team outfitted real surfers with cutting-edge gear.
Thirteen elite (national-level) surfers and nine sub-elite (state-level) surfers – both men and women – took part.
Each athlete sprinted 15 meters in a calm pool while carrying small waterproof motion sensors called inertial measurement units (IMUs).
These devices were glued to the surfer's body and board to capture every twist and tilt.
One sensor was fixed between the T3-T4 vertebrae on the upper back, another on the base of the sacrum (low back), and a third on the nose of the surfboard.
The IMUs recorded three-dimensional rotations (roll, pitch, yaw) at 200 Hz, tracking how the trunk and board moved each stroke.
To measure speed, surfers were attached by a line to a timing device high above the pool. As each paddler hit the 15-meter mark, the system logged their split time and the number of strokes taken.
An overhead camera synced to the device ensured that every stroke cycle was counted correctly.
In effect, each surfer performed a flat-water "surf sprint" while the sensors captured exactly what their bodies and boards were doing.
The approach couldn't be more scientific.
Elite vs. Sub-Elite: Who's Faster?
Unsurprisingly, the top surfers won the speed test. In the 15-meter sprint, elite surfers were significantly quicker than sub-elites in both sexes.
Elite men averaged roughly 8.5 seconds for 15 meters, while sub-elite men were about 8.9 seconds; elite women were around 9.6 seconds, versus sub-elite women at 10.5 seconds.
In each group, the better paddlers - those competing at the highest levels - simply covered the distance in less time.
The raw speed results confirm what coaches have long believed: faster paddling goes hand-in-hand with better surfing performance.
But the real insight comes from how the faster surfers moved.
The Secret in the Stroke
The key differences were found in the paddling technique.
The data showed that elite surfers twisted their bodies more powerfully with each stroke. In particular, top surfers had much larger trunk rotations around the yaw (vertical) axis than their sub-elite peers.
In plain terms, champions leaned their chests over farther to each side to reach more with each paddle. For example, elite surfers' torsos rotated on average about 40-45° in yaw per stroke, whereas sub-elites averaged closer to 30-40°.
The extra twist directly translates into a longer stroke and more pull on the water. It makes sense.
Interestingly, the best surfers did this without rocking their board. The sensors showed that the angle difference between the torso and the board (in yaw) was much larger in elite surfers.
In other words, the champions rotated their upper bodies while keeping the board relatively stable.
The authors of the study highlight this as the hallmark of superior technique: the ability to laterally flex the torso while maintaining board stability is "indicative of a more optimal sprint-paddling technique".
By spinning their upper body more aggressively yet holding the board on course, elite surfers effectively extended the reach of each stroke without wasting energy on board wobble.
This skillful counter-rotation means each arm stroke pulls more water backward, boosting propulsion.
On top of that, elite paddlers tended to keep their chests lower (less pitch) during the stroke.
The sub-elite athletes showed a tendency to pitch up (chest higher) relative to the board.
The "chest-down" positioning in elites allows even greater lateral flexion.
In contrast, a higher chest angle (seen in sub-elites) can limit how far one can twist side to side.
In sum, the winners were those who could hunch a bit more into the water, rotate hard, and pull efficiently, all while the board glided straight.
The chart below illustrates this point: elite surfers' thoracic yaw range (blue) peaks higher than sub-elite (pink) in each stroke, indicating their extra rotation.
The consistent pattern gave them longer underwater reach with each stroke, adding up to faster sprints.
Men vs. Women: Different Styles
The study also found clear sex-based differences in paddling style.
Male surfers tended to twist and lean their bodies more (higher yaw and pitch ranges) and kept their boards flatter than female surfers.
For example, men showed about 6° more pitch and 3° more yaw on average than women, while the boards of male surfers rolled (tilted side to side) roughly 3° less than those of female surfers.
The researchers suggest this likely reflects physical differences: men's larger torsos and greater strength let them rotate their spines with more force yet control the board firmly, whereas women's bodies (and even extra chest contact on the board) may lead to a bit more board wobble.
The findings imply that coaching should be tailored by sex.
Male athletes might focus on maximizing reach and fine-tuning power, while female athletes might drill core stability and board-control techniques to minimize unwanted rocking.
As the authors note, the results reveal "sex-specific movement profiles" and highlight the need for "individualized training strategies".
In practice, coaches could use this information to focus each surfer's training on their key weaknesses.
For instance, sub-elite women might work on exercises that stabilize the hips and board, while men of all levels might concentrate on explosive trunk rotation drills.
Practical Takeaways
What can surfers and coaches learn from this study? In essence, sprint-paddling speed comes from trunk rotation plus control.
The research team even suggests focusing on the erector spinae and latissimus muscles (key stabilizers in the back) for elite paddle training.
So, here's what any
- Twist for Reach: Emphasize exercises and drills that increase spinal rotation flexibility and strength. In training, focus on turning your chest to the sides fully during each stroke, mimicking the elite surfers' big yaw angles;
- Keep the Board Steady: Learn to pull hard with one arm while the board stays level. Core and back strength (especially obliques and lower back) are crucial to stabilizing the body on the board as you twist. Elite surfers managed to do this very well;
- Chest Position Matters: Practice keeping your chest lower (closer to the board) during paddling. A lower chest allows more lateral reach. Subtle posture shifts (chest down versus up) might make your strokes longer;
- Train Differently by Sex: Recognize that men and women paddle slightly differently. Coaches can develop programs that account for these differences (e.g., reducing board roll in women through targeted core work);
- Use Data in Training: If possible, incorporate wearable IMUs in training to give immediate feedback on paddle technique. Even simple video analysis can help spot if an athlete's board is rolling too much, or if they're not reaching far enough with their backhand;
Surfers at any level can also use this data to paddle better and smarter.
Source: Sienna Gosney, Clare Minahan, Joanna Parsonage, Luke MacDonald, April Denny, Matthew Worsey, "Monitoring sprint-paddling technique in elite and sub-elite surfers using inertial sensors" (Sports Engineering, 2025)
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