Of the many forms Hawaiians developed to ride a wave, outrigger canoe surfing is one of the oldest and most culturally and historically relevant practices of them all.
It likely evolved from the need of ancient Polynesians to use outrigger canoes (wa'a in Hawaiian) for transportation, war, fishing, communication, racing, burial, and recreation, often riding ocean swells during inter-island travel.
But what exactly is this blend of kayak, boat, and surfboard that resembles a catamaran?
An outrigger canoe is a watercraft designed for stability and efficiency in open water travel.
Its defining feature is the inclusion of an outrigger, a secondary floating hull positioned parallel to the main hull and connected by strong wooden booms.
The main hull, known as the vaka or wa'a, is long and narrow, optimized for speed and handling.
Traditionally carved from a single Koa tree log, the hull was shaped for strength, buoyancy, and the ability to cut smoothly through water.
Modern outrigger canoes, however, often utilize materials like fiberglass or carbon fiber for durability and performance.
The outrigger, or ama, provides balance and prevents capsizing, especially in turbulent conditions.
It is made from lightweight wood, such as Wiliwili in traditional designs, and is secured to the main hull with crossbeams called 'iako, which are tied with braided coconut sennit for flexibility and strength.
A Simple Yet Versatile Design
The design of Hawaiian outrigger canoes emphasizes function over decoration, with a streamlined shape and minimal ornamentation reflecting their utilitarian purpose.
Seating arrangements, or noho, are distributed along the hull for paddlers, each with a specific role.
The steersman, positioned at the rear, guides the canoe using a large paddle. It seems like a simple task, but it takes a lot of time to master and control.
Traditional canoes relied on natural materials for construction, including plant-based or animal-derived substances for waterproofing.
Modern adaptations incorporate synthetic materials while maintaining the core structural principles of their traditional counterparts.
Variations of the outrigger canoe exist, adapted for different purposes.
Some, like the double-hulled voyaging canoes, are built for long-distance ocean travel, while single-outrigger designs excel in nearshore maneuverability.
The Origins of the Outrigger Canoe
Outrigger canoes could've reached Hawaii around 200 AD.
Some of them would carry up to 80 passengers along with vital supplies such as food plants, freshwater, and animals to support the explorers on their daring journeys.
Navigators relied on the flight patterns of birds overhead to guide them, ultimately leading to the discovery of the Hawaiian Islands.
The rugged Hawaiian landscape, with its steep cliffs and jagged lava rocks, made transportation challenging, so outrigger canoes became essential for fishing and moving goods and people.
Hawaiians used massive Koa trees to carve entire canoe hulls from a single piece of wood.
Though designs have evolved over 2,000 years, Hawaiian outrigger canoes are still built for the open ocean.
Back in the day, building a canoe required a community effort and deep cultural rituals.
A kahuna, or priest, would locate the ideal Koa tree by observing the 'elepaio bird, which avoided rotting wood.
Once the tree was chosen, workers hauled it to the shore over several days, where the canoe was carved in a special shed called a halau.
The hull was waterproofed with black paint made from plants and charcoal, while royal canoes were given a glossy finish with hens' eggs.
Final rituals, including sacrifices, symbolized readiness for the sea.
Canoe seats were named after paddlers, and custom paddles became cherished personal items.
The sport of canoe surfing was initially reserved for Hawaiian royalty - ali'i - but was opened to all after the kapu system ended in 1819, and fisherpeople soon mastered it like nobody else.
Early Racing and Wave Riding
Polynesians almost certainly mastered the art of catching and riding unbroken ocean swells during their travels between islands.
However, it is unclear when canoes began being used for recreational surfing in nearshore waves.
The English-speaking world's introduction to surfing occurred in 1777 when British explorer Captain James Cook observed a Tahitian canoe surfer.
In his journal, Cook noted, "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea."
Canoe racing, or hei hei wa'a, originated in Hawaii, with chiefs racing and betting on outcomes.
Captain Cook also reported seeing thousands of outrigger canoes in 1779 in Hawaii and noted their importance to local life.
However, European influence and missionary pressure led to a decline in traditional canoeing, and Queen Ka'ahumanu later banned canoe racing.
Canoe surfing, like many Hawaiian traditions, including "surfboarding," declined during the 1800s, but King David Kalakaua revived outrigger canoe racing in 1875 by establishing an annual regatta.
The Push Forward: Outrigger Canoe Club and Hui Nalu
Another revival took place in the early 20th century.
Edward "Dude" Miller, a Waikiki beachboy, began taking tourists on canoe surfing rides in 1906, and the sport quickly picked up.
Celebrities such as Babe Ruth, Amelia Earhart, and Bing Crosby were drawn to the experience, enjoying smooth, thrilling rides framed by the iconic Diamond Head and Waikiki's hotel-lined beaches.
The resurgence was largely due to the founding of the Outrigger Canoe Club in 1908 by Alexander Hume Ford and efforts by rival organizations like Hui Nalu.
Curiously, Thomas Edison, the inventor of the light bulb, shot a movie in 1906 named "Hawaiian Islands," which showcases, among many other aspects of life in the archipelago, outrigger canoes used for several activities.
The Outrigger Canoe Club was established on a plot of land leased from the Estate of Queen Emma for just $10.
It was situated between the Seaside and Moana Hotels on Waikiki Beach, Oahu.
Initially, the club's facilities consisted of two simple grass huts purchased from a nearby zoo, serving as outrigger storage and a bathhouse.
In response to this predominantly haole (Caucasian) club, the Hui Nalu (Club of the Waves) was formed next door to represent native-born Hawaiians.
Although Olympic swimmer and surfing pioneer Duke Kahanamoku co-founded Hui Nalu, he was also a proud member of the Outrigger Canoe Club.
The friendly rivalry between the two clubs helped ignite and sustain the island's enthusiasm for water sports.
Canoe surfing, originally dominated by men, saw a significant change when the Outrigger Canoe Club began admitting women in 1926.
Despite the passage of time and changes in the sport, the club remains dedicated to its original mission.
Its mission statement reflects a timeless passion for Hawaii's water sports:
"It's a place where man may commune with sun and sand and sea, where good fellowship and aloha prevail, and where the sports of old Hawaii shall always have a home."
Canoe Surfing Big Waves
In 1920, Prince Edward Albert, after canoe surfing with Duke Kahanamoku, extended his stay to spend three more days riding waves.
Modern outrigger canoes, typically made from fiberglass, closely mimic the design of their ancient Polynesian predecessors.
In wave-riding, teams of one to five paddlers work together to position the canoe beyond the surf zone, choose a wave, and paddle in unison to catch it.
It's a spectacular sport to watch.
Once the wave is caught, a steersman guides the canoe down its face, either straight toward the shore or angling just ahead of the breaking white water.
There are almost no limits to the size of waves outrigger canoes can ride.
In 1975, Herb Kawainui Kane built Hokule'a, a replica of a traditional double-hulled canoe, which successfully sailed to Tahiti without modern tools, symbolizing Hawaiian resilience.
Later, Hawai'iloa, another traditional canoe, was constructed with donated Alaskan Sitka spruce logs, embodying shared cultural preservation and global unity.
In 1980, Hawaiian canoeist Tommy Holmes spearheaded "Project Avalanche," a daring attempt by three experienced canoe surfers to ride 20-foot waves at a North Shore break known as Avalanche.
Despite wiping out on both waves they caught, the project garnered attention in surf magazines.
While canoe surfing remains a favorite among Hawaiian tourists and dedicated enthusiasts, its broader popularity is limited by the high cost and bulk of the canoes, as well as the overcrowding at many surf breaks.
In the 1950s and 1960s, riders like Don Golden and Ron Drummond experimented with one-man, single-hull canoes, a variation that evolved into Canadian canoe surfing.
By 2003, clubs dedicated to Canadian canoe surfing had been established in California, England, and Ireland.
In 2024, one of the largest swells of 30 years hit Honolulu's Waikiki, and a group of experienced Hawaiian canoe surfers successfully rode massive waves at Castles.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
Bibliography and References:
M. Warshaw. "The Encyclopedia of Surfing," Mariner Books, 2005
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