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The Benak: riding the waves of Malaysia’s iconic tidal bore

The Benak: the Malaysian tidal bore can be surfed for several miles | Photo: Abadi/Sarawak Tourism Board

The Benak is one of the most underrated tidal bores on the planet for surfing. Nevertheless, despite its low-key status, it's one of the finest of its kind for surf exploration.

Usually, Malaysia is not the destination of choice for wave hunters planning a surf trip to Asia.

The country is split and separated by the South China Sea into two regions: Peninsular Malaysia and East Malaysia.

Unfortunately, geography and weather patterns don't often play in the nation's favor regarding surfing.

Confusing wind swells, lots of rainfall and murky monsoon waters during the swell season (November-March), irregular semi-diurnal tide cycles, and the absence of reef breaks make it difficult to find quality waves.

The Benak: the tidal bore in Sarawak, East Malaysia, can travel 60 miles (100 kilometers) up the Batang Lupar River | Photo: Abadi/Sarawak Tourism Board

The Benak: A Roaring Wave

However, there's a very good reason to pick up a surfboard in Malaysia.

It's called The Benak.

The Benak is a famous roaring tidal bore that runs up the Batang Lupar River in Sarawak, East Malaysia.

It occurs due to a combination of a few unique geographic and hydrological factors.

The coastline between Kuching and Sibu in southern Sarawak has a large funnel shape. Consequently, it amplifies tidal waves.

When ocean swells and tides enter this area, the narrowing space forces the water into a smaller region, increasing the tidal range at the narrower apex of this funnel-shaped coast.

In the region, there are three rivers - Batang Sadong, Batang Lupar, and Kuala Saribas - but only the first two witness significant tidal bores thanks to their broad and shallow characteristics.

It's the Batang Lupar that gets all the fame, though.

The reason this happens is because Lupar River's tidal bores are the most frequent of all in the region.

They can be seen twice a day during particularly high tides, that is, twice a month during New Moon and Full Moon when tides are at their highest.

Last but not least, Batang Lupar's bathymetry also boosts the bore's power, thanks to its wide, straight, and shallow bed that keeps its shape all the way to Pulau Seduku, a small island located in the middle of Batang Lupar.

From there, the tidal bore energy continues to travel far inland, passing through the town of Sri Aman.

It can sometimes extend as far as Berangan or even Engkelili, which is 29 miles (47 kilometers) from Sri Aman.

The Benak: the Malaysian tidal bore is famous for its crocodile attacks | Photo: Abadi/Sarawak Tourism Board

Crocodile Waters

There is only one downside. The Lupar River is a crocodile-infested waterway. It's a hazard, like the piranhas and candiru in Amazon's Pororoca.

Around 22 percent of all the crocodile attacks in the Sarawak state occur in these waters.

The legend says Bujang Senang was a massive saltwater crocodile that lived in East Malaysia and was known as a notorious man-eater.

Local sources claimed he had been attacking and killing people for at least thirty years since 1941.

Initially, his size was estimated to be 25 feet (7.62 meters).

However, after he was killed on May 20, 1992, it was discovered that his true length was 19 feet 3 inches (5.88 meters), and he weighed over a ton.

The Benak: Antony 'Yep' Colas and his crew were one of the first to surf the roaring and brown Lupar River waves | Photo: Colas

Celebrating the Tidal Bore

The Taman Panorama Benak is a splendid waterfront observation site overlooking the Batang Lupar River and its bore.

Every year, Sri Aman hosts a festival that celebrates the phenomenon of water rushing from the ocean against the natural river flow.

It's called Pesta Benak, an event that takes place when the tidal range is at its most extreme stage, usually in the second semester.

The three-day festival features food, cultural activities, traditional games, local products, live music, exhibitions, and water sports contests.

Surfing is one of the highlights of Pesta Benak, alongside canoe wave riding.

All participants line up and wait for the moment when the tidal bore wave arrives. The winner is the one who surfs it better and crosses the finish line upstream.

The Surf

The Benak, which in the local language means "tidal bore," is hard to surf.

Once you're able to put the crocodile imagery out of your brain, you're ready to focus on this brown and rumbling line of water moving fast past the jungle riversides.

One of the first people to surf The Benak was the French surf traveler, tidal bore chaser, and author Antony "Yep" Colas.

The waves, which range in height from 2 to 12 feet (0.6 to 3.6 meters), require good reading skills and quick decision-making.

The face is not always linear and may appear and disappear along the ride, forcing surfers to adjust to keep going.

In the initial stages, the Batang Lupar River is extremely wide.

As a result, a backup support boat is required to move faster along the wave train to get surfers to the best riding zone.

Stand-up paddleboarding could be the best option depending on the tidal bore's power on a given day and the area where you're riding.

Glassy and choppy wave conditions are both common and be prepared to ride a lot of whitewater that could lead to open-face sections.

Alongside the Qiantang River in China and The Bono in Indonesia, The Benak is one of the few tidal bores that can be found and ridden in Australasia.


Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com



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