London waves and underground tides: A "True Surf" story

The injury was a ruptured eardrum, doomed by a hard smack of cold Atlantic seawater.

It wasn't a particularly punchy day by any means, just the ocean reminding me of my fragility.

The doctor said, "No surfing for two months." I was devastated. Surfing had been my life; it had priority over almost everything.

por Surf News | Headlines and Top Stories https://ift.tt/dBypjgG

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