Nelscott Reef: the ultimate big wave of the Oregon coast

Nelscott Reef is a surf break located half a mile (800 meters) off the coast of Lincoln City, Oregon, United States. Oregon's ultimate big wave was named after the town's fourth district, and it is...

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Duke Kahanamoku reflects on surfing, Olympics, and old Hawaii in 1966 interview

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King Haakon VIII of Norway and his lifelong love of surfing

When Haakon VIII became King of Norway on August 28, 2026, the world learned more about the man behind the crown. Former Crown Prince Haakon is a sailor, skier, outdoor enthusiast, and, perhaps most surprisingly for a European monarch, a committed surfer. Nevertheless, he's not the first. Charles III , King of England, has surfed before, as have previous British royals . But let's focus on the newly crowned Norwegian king who has already spent years chasing waves. Haakon surfed in California while studying at the University of California, Berkeley, and later returned to the water in Norway with his family. The Nordic royal helped bring the European Surfing Championships (Eurosurf) to Norway and watched his daughter compete in the sport. Then, in a 2023 interview with Norwegian broadcaster NRK, he revealed how serious his surfing ambitions might once have been. Are you curious already? Let's see how surfing conquered Haakon VIII. A royal discovers surfing in Californ...

The hydrodynamics of surfboard fins

Have you ever wondered why a surfboard fin looks like that? It is a single or a set of fixed blades or keels located under a board, near the tail, often no bigger than a hand. Yet that small surface is where much of the surfboard's behavior takes place. Speed, hold, looseness, and the feeling of control all trace back to how water moves around fins. The physics of surfboard fins falls under hydrodynamics, the study of how fluids behave in motion. So, according to science, they feature a shape designed to turn flowing water into several forces. Let's take a look at what's at stake when fins and water interact. Lift and the feeling of control One of the key variables in hydrodynamic terms involving surfboard fins is lift. When a surfer leans into a turn, the board tilts and the fins meet the water at an angle. The angle is enough to create a pressure difference between the two sides of the fin. Water speeds up on one side and slows on the other. The result is a sidewa...

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