The mind of surfing

Fear and panic are two separate emotions. Fear is healthy; panic is lethal.

I have been surfing for the past six years now. I’m far from being a great surfer, but being 42 years old, I’m pretty happy with my decent level.

Even if it sounds a bit cliché, surfing literally changed my life and completely shifted my priorities.

Fonte notícia Surf News | Headlines and Top Stories publicado em https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-mind-of-surfing

Via RSS publicado em https://vitorolig.tumblr.com/post/623527738643546112

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